A wave comes crashing over me and I fall off the board. In the churn of the water, the force of the wave shoots the board towards the beach. My leg, tethered to the board, yanks me in a complete underwater backflip.
Except for the first time I went out to surf, I've managed to injure myself every time since:
#1 Cut foot, sprained left pointer finger, rash/board burn on palms and thighs from the board.
#2 Sprained gluteous minimus, assorted bruises on my shins, and a few scratches on my knees.
#3 Very bruised and swollen right middle finger.
It's fun though. The brief moment of standing on a board and feeling the water alive beneath me and the breeze above me keeps me going for another.